Doug Robinson was the founding President of the (AMGA - American Mountain Guides Association) is an AMGA certified rock guide and alpine guide and is also widely accepted as the grandfather of "clean climbing".
Quote From Doug Robinson:
"I agree that teaching skills are lagging in the AMGA program." Doug Robinson - April 23, 2010 - supertopo.com online forum.
Peter Croft is unquestionably regarded as one of the worlds best rock climbers! He has guided professionally for the famed Yosemite Mountaineering School and still runs rock climbing seminars in California.
Quote from Peter Croft:
"From two of their longtime member guides I found out that the AMGA initially promised concerned guides that they would never work towards having non member guides banned from any climbing areas - and if it did happen they would then disband.
Guess what happened?
This came into clear focus for me when, after years of guiding in Josh, I was banned from doing so in the future - unless I paid the AMGA a hundred bucks. Now I'm not saying that this was a blatant form of "protection" money - but I am dropping a pretty heavy hint.
No matter what, their urgent call for professionalism and safety for all would have carried more weight had I not met, on that same trip, a certified AMGA toprope instructor with 6 months climbing experience." Peter Croft - April 28, 2010 - supertopo.com forum
Guide Certification Organizations:
PCGI - guidesinstitute.org
AMGA - amga.com